Quartzite. Navajo Point, the final outcropping of the Kaiparowits Plateau, is directly overhead. I mean, enough lambs to keep the coyotes sleek, healthy and well fed. But all goes well and in an hour we arrive at the bottom. In the mixture of starlight and cloud-reflected sunlight in which the desert world is now illuminated, each single object stands forth in preternatural though transient brilliance, a final assertion of existence before the coming of night: each rock and shrub and tree, each flower, each stem of grass, diverse and separate, vividly isolate, yet joined each to every other in a unity which generously includes me and my solitude as well. The better to gnaw the tough roots of the scrubby tundra plants. There is no trail to the summit and from where I stand no ridge of solid rock to make the climb easier. Or so I am informed by Merle and Floyd. The old moon, like a worn and ancient coin, is still hanging in the west when I awake. Were in perfect agreement. Their emphasis on mutual aid, cooperation and sharing was not unknown among other American communities and indeed such qualities are vital to survival in a frontier situation but the Mormons went about it in a far more deliberate, conscious manner, with more successful results. He watched and a meteor passed beneath the web, gliding more slowly than a ship across what seemed an infinite sea of vibrant, curling waves. Seven more miles rough as a cob around the crumbling base of Elaterite Butte, some hesitation and backtracking among alternate jeep trails, all of them dead ends, and we finally come out near sundown on the brink of things, nothing beyond but nothingness a veil, blue with remoteness and below the edge the northerly portion of The Maze. But youre not clever, youre stupid, I reminded myself: stick to the plan. How to pry the tourists out of their automobiles, out of their back-breaking upholstered mechanized wheelchairs and onto their feet, onto the strange warmth and solidity of Mother Earth again? That made him think. But the various cactus flowers have earned the distinction claimed for them on the basis of their large size, their delicacy, their brilliance, and their transcience they bloom, many of them, for one day only in each year. Only half the cows wore Roys brand and earmarks but in accordance with custom we herded everything we found toward Moab; the other ranchers would do the same and in the stockpens each man would sort out his own property from the rest. We follow his instructions carefully and they turn out to be as correct as they are precise. Aug. 21, 2021. Will come to all of us, as it must (they say) to all men. Marauding enemies? In this early period the park is relatively undeveloped: road access and camping facilities are basic, and there is a low volume of tourist traffic. Rock and sun. He stepped straight through the flames of the fire toward Mr. Graham. At first Husk had wanted to take his wife and kids along to the San Rafael but Mr. Graham talked him out of it, pointing out that the family would be much more comfortable in its present camp near the amenities and conveniences of Moab. When they found the saddle, caught on the stub of a limb, the cinch straps broken, they gave up the search for the horse. We are obliged, therefore, to spread the news, painful and bitter though it may be for some to hear, that all living things on earth are kindred. I rode on. The great horned owl calls again, once or twice every few minutes, concerned but not anxious. Man is a gregarious creature, we are told, a social being. We need more coyotes, more mountain lions, more wolves and foxes and wildcats, more owls, hawks and eagles. We stop. Do not sell or share my personal information. as the owl is to eat. As the truck began to roll Mr. Grahams right foot groped for the brake pedal, found it and pushed it down to the floorboard without meeting the slightest hint of resistance. Nobody lives in this area but it is utilized nevertheless; the rancher we saw probably has his home in Hanksville or the little town of Green River. Shade as precious as water. Four pick up the stretcher and begin the march back to the road and the ambulance. Much of the time they spent making a road for the truck, hacking through juniper stands, filling in washouts or blasting a hole down through rimrock in order to reach a slope. A few hours later the bulk of the flood was past and gone. [10], Several chapters focus on Abbey's interactions with the people of the Southwest or explorations of human history. I tried, he said, and I cant. You are responsible only for questions in the chapters that are required reading as listed in the syllabus. At noon he found water. If any, says Waterman. My friend Ralph Newcomb studies Sri Aurobindo and Bill Eastlake has sunk to writing novels. You hungry?, Sorry we didnt bring anything. Along the Colorado River there is no town from Moab in Utah to Needles in California, a distance of over a thousand miles (if we except the two small, improvised, completely artificial company towns connected with the building and operation of Glen Canyon Dam and Boulder Dam). My only reservation concerning the mice is that they do attract rattlesnakes. Had the sun moved at all? First published in 1968, Desert Solitaire is one of Edward Abbey's most critically acclaimed works and marks his first foray into the world of nonfiction writing. Nobody could have cared less. He sleeps again., The horse is a gregarious beast, I said, a herd animal, like the cow, like the human. Even Mt. When these dried out I could at least record my final thoughts. Morning on the river: up with the dawn, before the sun, Ralph still sleeping, strange invisible birds calling and croaking from the bush, I wash last nights dishes in the muddy river. The rain came down for hours in alternate waves of storm and drizzle and I very soon had burnt up all the fuel within reach. Altars of the Moon? Can learn, at least, the smell of things associated with water the unique and heartening odor of the cottonwood tree, for example, which in the canyonlands is the tree of life. Portents: Red skies at morning, sailors take warning. From our vantage point they are the most striking landmarks in the middle ground of the scene before us. Formerly you could drive your car (over dirt roads, of course) to within sight of and easy walking distance a hundred yards? I advance upon it slowly and carefully, kicking out footholds as I climb. At one time for a period of three days my bowels seemed in danger of falling out, but I recovered. Unburdened by the necessity of devoting most of their lives to the production, distribution, sale and servicing of labor-saving machinery, lacking proper recreational facilities, these primitive savages were free to do that which comes as naturally to men as making love making graven images. Damn his eyes. I could see the tracks of its wheels quite plainly in the sand and the route was well marked, not only by the tracks but by the survey stakes planted in the ground at regular fifty-foot intervals and by streamers of plastic ribbon tied to the brush and trees. Both feet in stirrups, I took a few gulps of water and proceeded. He backs under it. No other water within miles, the local gnat population fought me for every drop. In climbing a mountain, if we persevere, we reach the summit; we get, you might say, to the point. The cow didnt want to get up; she preferred the shade. They must learn to be quaint, picturesque and photogenic. Perhaps the tree is mad. In the morning my visitor, whose name I didnt quite catch, crawled into his sack and went to sleep. And as they flew over the claims Mr. Graham switched on the scintillometer wired to a case of storage batteries which he carried in the plane and pointed out to Husk the pointer readings on the dials, indicative he explained of radioactive minerals somewhere in the mesa below. I needed a drink myself but the water here would make a man sick. I did nothing. He will make himself an exile from the earth. I slipped by degrees into lunacy, me and the moon, and lost to a certain extent the power to distinguish between what was and what was not myself: looking at my hand I would see a leaf trembling on a branch. Why do they sing? On top of one of the walls stand four gigantic monoliths, dark red, angular and square-cornered, capped with remnants of the same hard white rock on which we have brought the Land Rover to a stop. So dry and desolate. Still, I wouldnt want to live here. Other birds, silent, which I have not yet learned to identify, are also lurking in the vicinity, watching me. The Park Service, established by Congress in 1916, was directed not only to administer the parks but also to provide for the enjoyment of same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations. This appropriately ambiguous language, employed long before the onslaught of the automobile, has been understood in various and often opposing ways ever since. A treasure not in money but in beauty. Here, the legendary author of The Monkey Wrench Gang, Abbey's Road and many other critically acclaimed books vividly captures the essence of his life during three seasons as a park ranger in southeastern Utah. We divide the box of raisins and the last of the dried apricots. As we went on I looked back and saw the holes the cow had made fill up and brim over with water, like suppurating sores. Abbey also describes his difficulty finding the language, faith, and philosophy to adequately capture his understanding of nature and its effect on the soul.[16]. And do you know what happens if you stick your head in a vacuum tube?, Hey ole buddy, how far from here to Lubbock?, Well sir, I dont know exactly how far that is but Id guess its not nearly far enough., Any dangerous animals out here, ranger?, Just tourists. (Laughter; tell the truth, they never believe you. Outnumbered, surrounded and overwhelmed, the Navajos will probably be forced in self-defense to malform themselves into the shape required by industrial econometrics. A fine silt accumulates beneath the door and on the window ledge. Specifically, his search for a wild horse in the canyons (The Moon-Eyed Horse), his camping around the Havasupai tribal lands and his temporary entrapment on a cliff face there (Havasu), the discovery of a dead tourist at an isolated area of what is now Canyonlands National Park (The Dead Man at Grandview Point), his attempt to navigate the Maza area of the Canyonlands National Park (Terra Incognita: Into the Maze), and his ascent of Mount Tukuhnikivats (Tukuhnikivats, the Island in the Desert) are recounted. Time to inspect the garden. Our Advanced Search tool lets you easily search multiple fields I am shut off from the natural world and sealed up, encapsulated, in a box of artificial light and tyrannical noise. Well, let it be. I dive in, swim under the fall and take a soapless shower, lie on the rock in a patch of sunshine and gaze up at the small irregular fragment of blue which forms the sky in this place. Not content with shooting coyotes from airplanes and hunting lions with dogs, these bounty hunters, self-styled sportsmen, and government agents like to plant poisoned meat all over the landscape, distribute tons of poisoned tallow balls by air, and hide baited cyanide guns in the ground and brush a threat to humans as well as animals. The heart-shaped prints of deer led in and out. After a splendid night clouds like clipperships racing across the starry sky, moon floating along the brink of the crag above us, wind in the tamarisk we make a quick breakfast and I return to the exploration of the hidden passage, taking the canteens with me to fill with fresh water. The ravens mock us as we float by. Suppose we banned motorboats and allowed only canoes and rowboats; we would see at once that the lake seemed ten or perhaps a hundred times bigger. (, Tuesday and Wednesday I rest. Their achievement leads Abbey to further mediation on the deserts unique allure: its a totally alien place, neither hospitable like the mountains nor forbidding like the sea. My friends said they would wait. The walk gets wet. With supersensitive antennae these operatives from the C. of C. look into red canyons and see only green, stand among flowers snorting out the smell of money, and hear, while thunderstorms rumble over mountains, the fall of a dollar bill on motel carpeting.). Keeping the flame alive. Has he left the area entirely or is he hiding somewhere close by? LitCharts Teacher Editions. I come to a second dripping spring, water seeping from a fissure far above, falling in spray upon a massive slab of rock at the foot of the wall. The lawyer smiled again and revealed confidentially that he had been authorized to offer. That is, you are welcome to look, to pick up and examine but not to remove. The pool extended clear across the canyon floor from one sheer wall to the other. Each community, through the Church, also set up what we may call a public welfare service to provide sufficient and generous aid to those brought down by accident, illness, bad luck or other misfortune. In the evening the wind stops. Every child in this quiet place would have learned, along with his language and games, the legends of old battles and massacres, flights and migrations. I dont want. The larkspur is of the species called Subalpine or Barbey. Whose official newspaper. Finally, Moab is a Mormon town with funny ways. Farther still into the visionary world of Glen Canyon, talking somewhat less than before for what is there to say? Suit yourself. Regrettably I have found it unavoidable to write some harsh words about my seasonal employer the National Park Service, Department of the Interior, United States Government. With his carbon copy of the contract in hand Husk went home to give the good news to his wife. We shove off. In the bark of the nearest aspen, deeply inscribed, are the initials C.E.M., without a date. He introduces the desert as "the flaming globe, blazing on the pinnacles and minarets and balanced rocks"[18] and describes his initial reaction to his newfound environment and its challenges. I listened gravely as he spoke of death, nodding in an agreement I did not feel. Behind the fireworks will loom the figure of Smokey the Bear, taller than a pine tree, with eyes in his head that swivel back and forth, watching YOU, and ears that actually twitch. He scolds humanity for the environmental duress caused by man's blatant disregard for nature: "If industrial man, continues to multiply his numbers and expand his operations he will succeed in his apparent intention, to seal himself off from the natural, and isolate himself within a synthetic prison of his own making". They approached their meat in a stylized, formal fashion with little dancing steps and covered it under widespread, glossy, blue-black wings. I could see the blue of the sky between his ribs, through the eyesockets of his skull. The walls have a morbid greenish hue that matches the coloration of the nearby hills; this is dust from the Morrison formation, a loose friable shale containing copper oxides, agate, chert, and traces of vanadium and uranium. Near the brink of it, six feet from the drop-off and the plunge, I found a sandy cove just big enough for my bed. 3. And with Ralph on the upstream side of our double boat, I have to paddle twice as hard as he does just to keep even. I stretched out in the coyote den, pillowed my head on my arm and suffered through the long long night, wet, cold, aching, hungry, wretched, dreaming claustrophobic nightmares. The deerslayers come by the thousands every autumn out of Salt Lake and California to harvest, as they like to say, the surplus deer. Also the usual and prevalent canyon wrens and a few magpies and ravens. Between the flowered patches and the clumps of trees are meadows thick with gramagrass and shining Indian ricegrass and not a cow, horse, deer or buffalo anywhere. It looks like it might go. We may not have brought enough food but at least weve got plenty of Bull Durham. A few gray desert sparrows fly from one tree to the next, stop there, do not reappear. We need a refuge even though we may never need to go there. A fresh golden light breaks through and now in the east, over the turrets and domes, stands the rainbow sign, a double rainbow with one foot in the canyon of the Colorado and the other far north in Salt Wash. Vanity, vanity, nothing but vanity: the itch for naming things is almost as bad as the itch for possessing things. Tukuhnikivats has gone under, drowning in wild vapors, and a blue light covers the desert. Didnt come back the next day. It has its share of nerve-tingling adventuresset down in a lean, racing prose, in a close-knit style of power and beauty.". When a new national park, national monument, national seashore, or whatever it may be called is set up, the various forces of Industrial Tourism, on all levels, immediately expect action meaning specifically a road-building program. Dont worry, they said, this road will be built. Theres no telling and it certainly doesnt matter. He walks down to the creek once a day for a drink. Since Ralph has a camera and wants pictures of the launching I am obliged to go first. Look here, I want to say, for godsake folks get out of them there machines, take off those fucking sunglasses and unpeel both eyeballs, look around; throw away those goddamned idiotic cameras! For a moment I am shocked by my deed; I stare at the quiet rabbit, his glazed eyes, his blood drying in the dust. Will anything ever be quite the same again? and the angels and cherubim and seraphim rotate in endless idiotic circles, like clockwork, about an equally inane and ludicrous however roseate Unmoved Mover. He saw the horizon rise in a queer way far up on his right and to the left where the earth had been a moment before was only blue sky, empty space, a bottomless gulf. I manage to recapture it and climb partway back on but before I can get comfortable again I see an outcrop of immovable granite, which I hadnt noticed before, rising in our path. Sold. And where then would people go when they wanted to see something besides people?, I see what you mean. It is somehow comforting to see, nearby, the yuccas growing from the sand and from joints in the stone. There are few birds in the high woods, less wildlife it seems than down below in the sunbaked desert. And Mr. Graham already standing, backing away, pulled the dark gleaming thing from his other jacket pocket, cocked it, thrust it forward. from Negro colleges deep in the Bible Belt, the Navajo children learn to speak American with a Southern accent. Less than a century later his discovery will be buried under the mud of the reservoir, rendered inaccessible by those who claim they are not only developing but also opening up the canyon country. [6] Cliffrose and Bayonets and Serpents of Paradise focus on Abbey's descriptions of the fauna and flora of the Arches area, respectively, and his observations of the already deteriorating balance of biodiversity in the desert due to the pressures of human settlement in the region. In addition to this sort of practical guide service the ranger will also be a bit of a naturalist, able to edify the party in his charge with the natural and human history of the area, in detail and in broad outline. Alone-ness became loneliness and the sensation was strong enough to remind me (how could I have forgotten?) Their indescribable strangeness forces Abbey to describe them with creative language and, in one case, a poem. Print Word PDF This section contains 617 words (approx. As will usually happen, we are on the wrong side of the river when we want to make a landing. Naturally I was flattered and at the same time surprised, hurt, a little shocked. In the year 1880, eleven years after Powell had passed this way, the Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter-Day Saints commissioned a group of the faithful, living then in south-central Utah, to establish a new settlement in the southeast corner of the state near what is now the village of Bluff. Still without a stroke the vulture rises higher, higher, in ever wider circles, until nothing can be seen of this gaunt, arrogant, repellent bird but the coal-dark V-sign of his wings against the blue dome of heaven. What little I can see of the sky between the high and almost interlocking walls of the canyon looks cloudy, promising rain. We had expected this. I take more baggage from my pickup, the grub box and cooking gear, go back in the trailer and start breakfast. A wall of water. The midday heat figured in my plan: I believed that in such heat the moon-eyed outlaw would be docile as a plow horse, amenable to reason. While watching the tire bounce over tall pine trees, tear hell out of a mule train and disappear with a final grand leap into the inner gorge, I overheard the park ranger standing nearby say a few words about a place called Havasu, or Havasupai. He didnt even smell like a horse, didnt seem to have any smell about him at all. Mackie lit a cigarette. Activate your 30 day free trialto continue reading. Its a cold, snowy night when he arrives, after a 450-mile drive, at the mice-ridden little tin government house trailer (3) that will serve as his home for the next six months. To conserve bodily moisture and energy the rodents remain in their burrows during the day. I slid from the saddle and led my pony to the east side of the nearest boulder and tied him. The Park Service, like any other big organization, includes factions and factions. His only request is that they cut their strings first. Late in the afternoon, waking from a deep reverie, I observe, as we glide silently by, a pair of ravens roosting on a dead tree near the shore, watching us pass. Gaze not too long into the abyss, lest the abyss gaze into thee., I watch also for a gathering of vultures in the air, which would be a helpful clue. Worst of all he skimps on food. There are ponds of fresh water on the canyon floor; I refill the canteens and return to the boats. And they should. Theres a horse living up that canyon, I announced; a wild horse. Fortunately the parks, by the mere elimination of motor traffic, will come to seem far bigger than they are now there will be more room for more persons, an astonishing expansion of space. What is quicksand anyway? By noon, however, clouds begin to form over the mountains, coming it seems out of nowhere, out of nothing, a special creation. Help, he said, simply and quietly. Furthermore we are lazy, indolent animals, Newcomb and I, half-mesmerized by the idyllic ease of our voyage; neither of us can seriously believe that very soon the beauty we are passing through will be lost. 3. Death by starvation, slow and tedious. at the same time and combine terms in complex ways. It was a gray jeep with a U.S. Government decal on the side Bureau of Public Roads and covered with dust. He lived now a dream. If the water is scummed with algae, crawling with worms, grubs, larvae, spiders and liver flukes, be reassured, drink hearty, youll get nothing worse than dysentery. There was no sound but the noise of my drinking mount, no sight anywhere of animate life. And there is the Water Carrier, the Sea Goat, the Ram, the Whale and last, least and most obscure Musca the Fly, about halfway between Aries and the Pleiades, hard to see, scorned by the astrologers, neglected by all but me, a tiny group so far away that they may be already extinct, dead, extinguished, reminding us only by these last dim signals of their former existence. Although I sometimes cook at the fireplace outside, it is certainly easier to use the gas stove in the trailer, despite the heat. From up ahead comes the familiar freight-train roar of white water again. Take off your shoes for a while, unzip your fly, piss hearty, dig your toes in the hot sand, feel that raw and rugged earth, split a couple of big toenails, draw blood! But a few survive, mature, become real toads, and when the pool dries up they dig into the sediment as their parents did before, making burrows which they seal with mucus in order to preserve that moisture necessary to life. Or thought they did. But where I stand the storm is only beginning. Obviously the only sensible thing to do was to turn back. The trail leads beside the clear-running brook and a chain of emerald pools, some of them big enough to go swimming in, with the water so transparent I can see the shadows of the schools of minnows passing over the grains of sand in the bottom of the basins. An agreement four pages long was drawn up by Mr. Grahams secretary, signed by both parties, notarized by the secretary and witnessed formally by the grimy hand of a man in oily green coveralls who crawled out from beneath Mr. Grahams aircraft when needed. Im worried, I said. Give the kids a break too, let them out of the car, let them go scrambling over the rocks hunting for rattlesnakes and scorpions and anthills yes sir, let them out, turn them loose; how dare you imprison little children in your goddamned upholstered horseless hearse? 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